上海

Shanghai : where locals actually eat

Shanghai spots loved by locals. Includes Chinese names, addresses and ready-to-use ordering phrases — copy directly into Amap, Didi or show to your waiter.

50 places

Every spot has a Chinese name you can copy, an address a driver will recognise, and what locals actually order.

Huangpu 33 places

A bowl of yellow croaker noodle soup Formerly A Niang
马海霞黄鱼面
Ma Haixia Yellow Croaker Noodles (formerly A Niang Noodle House)

Near Near Sinan Mansions; small storefront on the street

Metro Line 13, Middle Huaihai Road Station, Exit 1, ~240m walk

The signature is the yellow croaker noodle soup — locals order it as 「黄鱼面加咸菜」 (with pickled greens). The topping is cooked to order and often sells out after...

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Dry-style shengjian bao at Da Hu Chun, the crisp-base school Editor's pick
大壶春
Da Hu Chun

Near On South Yunnan Road food street; easy to miss

Metro Line 8, Dashijie Station, Exit 2, ~500m walk

Shanghai's "dry-style" shengjian bao house — no aspic in the filling, so less soup but a deeply crisp bottom. The local order is 「二两鲜肉生煎」 (100g pork buns) wi...

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A plate of Yang's pan-fried pork buns Easy first stop
小杨生煎(黄河路店)
Yang's Fry Dumpling (Huanghe Road)

Near In the People's Square / Nanjing Road area; look for the yellow sign

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 8, ~290m walk

The "soup-filled" school — aspic mixed into the pork filling bursts when you bite. First-timers: take a small bite first or you'll wear the soup. Locals pair...

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A bamboo basket of pork xiaolongbao Stay downstairs
南翔馒头店
Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant

Near Inside Yuyuan Garden Mall, next to the Zigzag Bridge

Metro Lines 10/14, Yuyuan Garden Station, Exit 1, ~400m walk

Two dining areas share the building: the ground-floor takeaway counter (cheap, standing, locals queue here) and the upstairs restaurant (3-5x pricier, servic...

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A bowl of sesame paste noodles at Wei Xiang Zhai Spider-Man noodles
味香斋
Wei Xiang Zhai Noodle Shop

Near At the lane entrance off Yandang Road; 11 tables, tiny storefront

Metro Line 1, South Huangpi Road Station, Exit 1, ~340m walk

Order the combo every Shanghainese uncle gets: 麻酱拌面 (sesame-paste noodles) plus 炸猪排 (fried pork chop) and a small beef soup. The sesame paste is a peanut-ses...

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A bamboo basket of crab xiaolongbao at Lai Lai 40% foreign regulars
莱莱小笼·乔艾
Lai Lai Xiao Long

Near On Tianjin Road, the back street behind Nanjing East Road — look for the queue

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 19, ~580m walk

The move: order 蟹粉鲜肉小笼 (crab-and-pork xiaolongbao), eat the first one plain — no vinegar — then dip the rest in the ginger vinegar that arrives with the bask...

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Red-braised pork belly at Lanxin Restaurant Six tables only
蘭心餐厅
Lanxin Restaurant (Old Jesse)

Near Mid-block on Jinxián Road; smallest door, longest queue

Metro Line 13, Middle Huaihai Road Station, Exit 3, ~540m walk

The 红烧肉 (red-braised pork) here is the benchmark version — lacquered, sweet, falling apart. Order it with 草头 (stir-fried alfalfa greens) and 油爆虾 (flash-fried...

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Steaming basket of crab soup dumplings Cash only — arrive at 10
佳家汤包
Jia Jia Tang Bao

Near North end of Huanghe Road food street, the lane made famous by Blossoms Shanghai

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 8, ~340m walk

Every English-language Shanghai guide says the same three things about this shop — "cash only", "line starts at 10AM", "¥25 for 12 dumplings" — because they'...

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Braised pork hock noodle soup Since 1878
德兴馆(广东路总店)
Dexingguan (Guangdong Road flagship)

Near The old Guangdong Road storefront; ~10 minutes' walk from the Bund

Metro Line 2/10, East Nanjing Road Station, Exit 4, ~590m walk

The dish that built the reputation is 焖蹄雪菜大面 — braised pork hock with pickled-greens noodles, ¥30-odd and unchanged in spirit since the Qing dynasty. Go at 7...

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Fresh pork mooncakes hot from the oven The mooncake queue
光明邨大酒家(淮海路店)
Guangmingcun Restaurant (Huaihai Road)

Near Street-front on Middle Huaihai Road; the permanent mooncake queue is the landmark

Metro Line 13, Middle Huaihai Road Station, Exit 1, ~320m walk

Two different reasons to come. The street window sells 鲜肉月饼 (fresh pork mooncakes) — eat one immediately, paper bag and all. Upstairs is a proper benbang din...

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双酿团 at 沈大成(南京东路店) Since 1875
沈大成(南京东路店)
Shen Da Cheng (Nanjing East Road)

Near On the Nanjing East Road pedestrian street, near Zhejiang Middle Road

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 14, ~500m walk

A takeaway counter, not a teahouse. Regulars come for the 糕团 (sticky-rice sweets) sold by the piece — 双酿团 and 条头糕 are the old-Shanghai standards. In spring t...

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排骨年糕 at 鲜得来排骨年糕(云南南路总店) Since 1921
鲜得来排骨年糕(云南南路总店)
Xian De Lai Pork Chop Rice Cake

Near Beside the South Yunnan Road food street, near Dashijie

Metro Line 8, Dashijie Station, Exit 1, ~20m walk

One dish made this shop famous: 排骨年糕 — a fried pork chop on chewy rice cakes, doused in sweet-and-sour sauce. Eat it with a bowl of 单档汤 (tofu- skin and glute...

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小绍兴精选白切鸡 (signature white-cut chicken) White-cut chicken since 1943
小绍兴大酒店(云南南路店)
Xiao Shaoxing White-Cut Chicken

Near On the South Yunnan Road food street

Metro Line 14, Dashijie Station, Exit 5, ~100m walk

Shanghai's benchmark 白斩鸡 (poached chicken served cold) — order by weight, 三黄鸡 is the cleaner-tasting bird. Dip in the soy-ginger sauce and wash it down with ...

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八宝鸭 at 上海老饭店(豫园店) Benbang since 1875
上海老饭店(豫园店)
Shanghai Old Restaurant (Yu Garden)

Near Inside the Yu Garden / City God Temple area

Metro Line 14, Yu Garden Station, Exit 7, ~420m walk

A proper benbang dining room for the classics: 八宝鸭 (eight-treasure duck), 油爆虾 (flash-fried river shrimp) and 清炒鳝糊 (stir-fried eel). Book ahead for dinner; th...

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桂花拉糕 at 绿波廊(豫园店) State-banquet dim sum
绿波廊(豫园店)
Lu Bo Lang (Yu Garden)

Near Beside the Zigzag Bridge inside Yu Garden

Metro Line 14, Yu Garden Station, Exit 7, ~680m walk

Famous for hosting world leaders over dim sum — go upstairs for the view of the Zigzag Bridge. Order the 桂花拉糕 (osmanthus rice cake) and 蟹粉小笼 (crab- and-pork ...

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草头圈子 at 老正兴菜馆(福州路店) Since 1862
老正兴菜馆(福州路店)
Lao Zheng Xing (Fuzhou Road)

Near On Fuzhou Road near Zhejiang Middle Road

Metro Line 1, People's Square Station, ~470m walk

One of the oldest benbang kitchens in the city. Come for 响油鳝糊 (sizzling eel with hot oil) and 草头圈子 (pork intestine with alfalfa). It is an old- fashioned din...

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酒醉蛋糕 at 国际饭店·帆声西饼屋(黄河路店) The butterfly queue
国际饭店·帆声西饼屋(黄河路店)
Park Hotel Fan Sheng Bakery

Near At the Park Hotel, by People's Square, at the Huanghe Road corner

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 8, ~130m walk

The 蝴蝶酥 (palmier / butterfly pastry) here is the benchmark of the city. Buy the 甜 (sweet) original and a bag of the 咸 (savoury cheese) version to compare. It...

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鲜肉月饼 at 泰康食品(南京东路店) Since 1917
泰康食品(南京东路店)
Tai Kang Food (Nanjing East Road)

Near On the Nanjing East Road pedestrian street

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 19, ~300m walk

An old state-run food hall: preserved meats, biscuits and the crowd- favourite 鲜肉月饼 (fresh pork mooncake) at the front window. A good one-stop shop for edibl...

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鲜肉月饼 at 真老大房(南京东路店) Since 1854
真老大房(南京东路店)
Zhen Lao Da Fang (Nanjing East Road)

Near On the Nanjing East Road pedestrian street, near Zhejiang Middle Road

Metro Line 2/10, Nanjing East Road Station, Exit 4, ~360m walk

A 1854 shop best known for 鲜肉月饼 — flaky pastry around a juicy pork patty, eaten hot. The 熏鱼 (smoked fish) counter is the other reason locals queue.

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老鸭粉丝汤 at 小金陵盐水鸭(山西南路店) Nanjing-style duck
小金陵盐水鸭(山西南路209号)
Xiao Jin Ling Salted Duck

Near On Shanxi South Road near Nanjing East Road

Metro Line 2/10, Nanjing East Road Station, Exit 1, ~160m walk

Nanjing-style 盐水鸭 (salted duck), served cold — buy it cut and eat it with 老鸭粉丝汤 (duck-broth vermicelli). It is a hole-in-the-wall order-at-the- counter kind ...

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罗汉上素面 at 春风松月楼(豫园商城店) Vegetarian since 1910
春风松月楼(豫园商城店)
Chunfeng Songyuelou (Yu Garden)

Near At the Yu Garden Gate 5 entrance

Metro Line 10, Yu Garden Station, Exit 3, ~370m walk

A century-old vegetarian kitchen in the middle of the meat-heavy Yu Garden. The 净素菜包 (vegetable bun) and 素蟹粉 (mock crab roe) are the orders — it is the one s...

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八宝辣酱小年糕 at 转角·老弄堂上海菜(淮海路店) Old-lane atmosphere
转角·老弄堂上海菜(淮海路店)
Corner Old Longtang Shanghai Cuisine

Near Opposite the Jinjiang Hotel, upstairs on the 2nd floor

Metro Line 13, Middle Huaihai Road Station, Exit 3, ~50m walk

A second-floor room styled like an old lane house. Order 转角红烧肉 (house braised pork) and 响油鳝丝 (sizzling eel); the atmosphere is half the reason to come.

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蟹粉拌面 at 馋三尺蟹粉小笼(人民广场店) Crab xiaolong
馋三尺蟹粉小笼(人民广场店)
Chan San Chi Crab Xiaolong

Near 1F of Siyuan Mansion on Tibet Middle Road, by People's Square

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, ~410m walk

Crab-roe soup dumplings, made to order. The 头牌蟹粉小笼 is the reason to come; add 蟹粉拌面 (crab-roe noodles) if you want both in one sitting.

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桂花红烧肉 at 外滩家宴·上海菜(外滩豫园店) The Bund view
外滩家宴·上海菜(外滩豫园店)
Bund Family Feast Shanghai Cuisine

Near 2F of Bund 22, facing the river and the Pudong skyline

Metro Line 14, Yu Garden Station, Exit 7, ~430m walk

A benbang dining room with a river view — 桂花红烧肉 (osmanthus braised pork) and 松鼠鲈鱼 (sweet-and-sour perch) are the showpieces. Come for the view as much as the...

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蟹黄金捞面 at 寄畅興·百年蟹黄面(南京东路店) From the TV drama
寄畅興·百年蟹黄面·老弄堂面馆(南京东路店)
Jichangxing Crab-Roe Noodles

Near On Tianjin Road by Nanjing East Road station

Metro Line 2/10, Nanjing East Road Station, Exit 3, ~70m walk

A century-old noodle house that got a second life from the TV drama 'Blossoms'. The 蟹黄金捞面 (crab-roe noodles) and 纯蟹粉小笼 are the orders — rich and very Shanghai.

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罗宋汤 at 德大西餐社 Shanghai Western since 1897
德大西餐社
Deda Western Restaurant

Near On Nanjing West Road near Tibet Middle Road

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 11, ~370m walk

'Shanghai Western' food — the local interpretation of European cooking, developed since 1897. Order 罗宋汤 (borscht) and 炸猪排 (fried pork chop), the canonical ol...

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蟹粉黄金拌面 at 蟹小友·蟹黄面·手工点心(南京东路店) Crab-roe specialist
蟹小友·蟹黄面·手工点心(南京东路店)
Xie Xiaoyou Crab-Roe Noodles

Near Basement level of the Silk Mansion on Nanjing East Road

Metro Line 2/10, Nanjing East Road Station, Exit 4, ~480m walk

A crab-roe specialist in a basement food hall. The 蟹粉黄金拌面 (crab-roe dry noodles) and 蟹黄灌汤包 (crab soup dumplings) are the orders; it is a cleaner, modern take...

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捞炝罗马生菜 at 上海12弄·本帮菜(人民广场世茂店) Mall benbang
上海12弄·本帮菜(人民广场世茂店)
Shanghai 12 Nong (People's Square)

Near 4F of Shimao Plaza East, on Nanjing East Road

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 14, ~320m walk

Convenient benbang inside a mall on Nanjing East Road. The 响油鳝丝 and 红烧肉配菜饭 are the orders; the menu is broad and easier for groups than the old dining rooms.

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特色生煎 at 东泰祥生煎馆(重庆北路店) Open all hours
东泰祥生煎馆(重庆北路店)
Dong Tai Xiang Shengjian

Near On Chongqing North Road near Dagu Road

Metro Line 14, Site of the First CPC Congress Station, Exit 4, ~490m walk

A 24-hour 生煎 (pan-fried pork bun) shop. The 特色生煎 has a crisp bottom and a juicy filling; add 开洋葱油拌面 (scallion-oil noodles) for the full old-Shanghai breakfast.

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小蝴蝶酥 at 上海哈尔滨食品厂(淮海中路店) Russian-influenced bakery
上海哈尔滨食品厂(淮海中路店)
Harbin Food Factory (Huaihai Road)

Near On Middle Huaihai Road near Sinan Road

Metro Line 13, Middle Huaihai Road Station, Exit 1, ~320m walk

An old Shanghai bakery with Russian roots — the 蝴蝶酥 (palmier) and 杏仁排 (almond bar) are the classics. A good stop on a Huaihai Road walk; buy by the bag.

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排骨年糕 at 侬晓得排骨年糕(雁荡路店) Pork chop rice cake
侬晓得排骨年糕(雁荡路店)
Nong Xiaode Pork Chop Rice Cake

Near On Yandang Road near Middle Huaihai Road

Metro Line 1, Site of the First CPC Congress Station, Exit 1, ~320m walk

A no-frills 排骨年糕 (pork chop with rice cakes) shop on Yandang Road. Order the set with 双档汤 (double-ingredient soup) — it is the same old-Shanghai craving as t...

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鲜肉生煎 at 萝春阁·生煎大王 Shengjian king
萝春阁·生煎大王
Luo Chun Ge Shengjian

Near On Zhejiang Middle Road near Nanjing East Road

Metro Line 1/2/8, People's Square Station, Exit 19, ~650m walk

A 生煎 (pan-fried bun) specialist within walking distance of Nanjing Road but away from the worst crowds. The 鲜肉生煎 is the baseline; the 蟹黄鲜肉生煎 is the richer ve...

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大烧卖 at 白玉兰食品(日月光中心店) Big buns, cheap
白玉兰食品(日月光中心店)
Baiyulan Food (SML Center)

Near B2 of the SML Center, Taikang section

Metro Line 9, Dapuqiao Station, ~300m walk

Known for oversized 大肉包 (pork buns) and 大烧卖 (big shumai) at low prices. A quick, filling snack stop in the SML Center food basement near Dapuqiao.

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Hongkou 3 places

Traditional Shanghai sticky rice cakes Cash only
虹口糕团
Hongkou Rice Cake

Near A street-window shop; the queue is all locals

Metro Lines 3/4, Baoshan Road Station, ~600m walk

An old-school sticky-rice cake window. The signatures are 「条头糕」 (red bean roll) and 「双酿团」 (double-filled ball). Sweet and savoury both — locals grab these fo...

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腰花大肠拌面 at 福和面馆(上海昆山花园路总店) Toppings, not broth
福和面馆(上海昆山花园路总店)
Fuhe Noodles (Kunshan Garden Road)

Near Near the Zhapu Road / Wuchang Road junction

Metro Line 10/12, Tiantong Road Station, ~850m walk

Shanghai noodle bowls are about the 浇头 (toppings), and Fuhe does the offal ones well — 猪肝腰花拌面 (liver and kidney dry noodles) is the order. Stir it all togeth...

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牛舌拌面 at 鲜味面馆·沪鲜面馆(北外滩店) Beef toppings
鲜味面馆·沪鲜面馆(北外滩店)
Xianwei Noodles (North Bund)

Near In the North Bund area, near the Waibaidu Bridge

Metro Line 4, Yangshupu Road Station, Exit 4, ~550m walk

A beef-noodle shop near the North Bund. The 牛舌拌面 (beef-tongue dry noodles) and 牛腩牛蹄筋拌面 are the orders; there is a self-serve 小料台 for pickles and sauces.

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Changning 2 places

A bowl of clam and pork liver noodles Top taste score (4.6)
沪西老弄堂面馆(定西路店)
Huxi Old Longtang Noodle House

Near On the Dingxi Road food strip; the busiest queue at meal times

Metro Line 3/4, West Yan'an Road Station, Exit 2, ~900m walk

The signature is 蛤蜊猪肝面 — clam and pork-liver noodles. Order it and you'll be eating what the highest-rated bowl in this entire guide tastes like: taste 4.6 o...

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辣肉面 at 祥和面馆(定西路店) Open all hours
祥和面馆(定西路店)
Xianghe Noodles (Dingxi Road)

Near On Dingxi Road near Yan'an West Road

Metro Line 2/3/4, Zhongshan Park Station, ~600m walk

A round-the-clock neighbourhood noodle shop. The 辣肉面 (spicy pork noodles) is the house order and the 炸猪排 (fried pork chop) makes it a full meal. Cheap, fast,...

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Jing'an 4 places

Crab-roe glutinous rice balls in a bowl Since 1945
王家沙点心店(南京西路总店)
Wangjiasha Dim Sum (West Nanjing Road flagship)

Near Street-facing on West Nanjing Road, opposite Meilongzhen Plaza

Metro Line 2/12/13, West Nanjing Road Station, Exit 2, ~220m walk

Order at the glass counters like a local: 蟹粉汤团 (crab-roe glutinous balls) in winter, 虾仁两面黄 (crisp-fried noodles with shrimp) any time, and 素菜包 (vegetable bun...

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生爆鳝背 at 梅龙镇酒家(南京西路总店) Sichuan-Shanghai since 1938
梅龙镇酒家(南京西路总店)
Mei Long Zhen Jiujia

Near Off Nanjing West Road, by Westgate Mall

Metro Line 12, West Nanjing Road Station, Exit 14, ~440m walk

A 1938 institution that blends Shanghainese and Sichuan cooking. Order 生爆鳝背 (flash-fried eel) and 干烧明虾 (dry-braised prawns), and finish with 豆沙锅饼 (red-bean p...

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开运方糕 at 阮大兴糕团(静安久光店) Bakery-counter sweets
阮大兴糕团(静安久光店)
Ruan Daxing Gaotuan (Jing'an)

Near B1 of the Jiu Guang department store

Metro Line 2/7, Jing'an Temple Station, Exit 2, ~120m walk

A modern 糕团 (sticky-rice cake) counter in the Jiu Guang basement. The 开运方糕 and 奶黄流心方糕 (custard-filled square cakes) are the orders; cheaper and easier than t...

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三黄鸡 at 泰煌鸡·上海白斩鸡·鸡汤面(新闸路店) Chicken and noodles
泰煌鸡·上海白斩鸡·鸡汤面(新闸路店)
Tai Huang Ji White-Cut Chicken

Near On Xinzha Road near Xikang Road

Metro Line 7, Changping Road Station, Exit 2, ~920m walk

A 白斩鸡 (white-cut chicken) chain that also does 鸡汤面 (chicken-broth noodles). Order 三黄鸡 with the soy-ginger dip and a bowl of noodles for a filling, cheap meal.

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Xuhui 4 places

本帮熏鱼 at 人和馆·上海菜(徐汇店) Top-rated benbang
人和馆·上海菜(徐汇店)
Renheguan Shanghai Cuisine (Xuhui)

Near Near Tianzifang and Jianyeli

Metro Line 9, Jiashan Road Station, Exit 5, ~220m walk

One of the highest-rated benbang rooms in the city. The 招牌红烧肉 (braised pork belly) and 蟹粉捞饭 (crab-roe rice) are the reasons to book — it fills up, so reserve...

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特色红烧肉 at HOMES上海本帮菜(襄阳公园店) Home-style benbang
HOMES上海本帮菜(襄阳公园店)
HOMES Shanghai Cuisine

Near On Xinle Road near Xiangyang Park

Metro Line 1/10/12, South Shaanxi Road Station, Exit 10, ~480m walk

Home-style benbang done with care — the 特色红烧肉 (braised pork) and 本帮熏鲳鱼 (smoked pomfret) are the orders. A relaxed, modern room rather than an old state dinin...

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苏式蟹黄面 at 裕兴记·汤郑兴蟹黄面馆(上海旗舰店) Suzhou-style noodles
裕兴记·汤郑兴蟹黄面馆(上海旗舰店)
Yuxingji Crab-Roe Noodles

Near On Fenyang Road near Middle Huaihai Road

Metro Line 1/10/12, South Shaanxi Road Station, ~290m walk

Suzhou-style 苏式 noodle house rather than a Shanghai one — the 苏式红汤面 (red- broth noodles) and 蟹黄面 are the orders. Lighter and more delicate than Shanghai's no...

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排骨年糕 at 蒋掌柜·老上海本帮美食(武康大楼店) Near Wukang Mansion
蒋掌柜·老上海本帮美食(武康大楼店)
Jiang Zhanggui Shanghai Cuisine

Near On Middle Huaihai Road near the Wukang Mansion

Metro Line 10, Shanghai Library Station, Exit 3, ~510m walk

A casual benbang eatery a few steps from the Wukang Mansion. The 排骨年糕 and 本帮辣肉面 are the quick orders; useful while you're doing the Huaihai Road photo walk.

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Pudong 1 places

响油鳝丝 at 兴兴·海派本帮菜 Neighbourhood favourite
兴兴·海派本帮菜
Xingxing Shanghai Cuisine

Near 3rd floor of Manle City, in the Shangnan area

Metro Near the Yunlian Road / Qihe Road junction

A neighbourhood benbang spot a metro ride from downtown, and the trade-off is quality without the tourist markup. The 响油鳝丝 and 熟醉大头虾 (drunken prawns) are the...

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Putuo 2 places

鲜肉锅贴 at 和乐点心店 Since 1960s
和乐点心店
Hele Dim Sum

Near On Xinhui Road near Changshou Road

Metro Line 7/13, Changshou Road Station, Exit 5, ~100m walk

A neighbourhood 点心店 known for 鲜肉锅贴 (pan-fried pork dumplings) and 咖喱牛肉汤 (curry beef soup). Locals eat it standing or perched at the few tables — the queue te...

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锅贴 at 黄阿姨锅贴大王(万航渡路店) Opens at 5am
黄阿姨锅贴大王(万航渡路店)
Huang Ayi Potstickers

Near On Wanhangdu Road near Wuding Road

Metro Line 14, Wuding Road Station, Exit 2, ~470m walk

A neighbourhood 锅贴 (potsticker) shop that opens at 5am for breakfast. The 锅贴 have a crisp browned base; pair them with 咖喱牛肉粉丝汤 (curry beef vermicelli).

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Minhang 1 places

开洋拌面 at 新镇江上海小笼馆 Park-side xiaolong
新镇江上海小笼馆
Xin Zhenjiang Shanghai Xiaolong

Near North of Shangyuan Bridge in Pujiang Country Park

Metro Near Shanghai Miracle Garden, ~980m walk

Xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) in the middle of Pujiang Country Park — the 经典小笼三拼 (three-flavour sampler) is the easy order. A good food stop if you're spendin...

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Guides to eating in Shanghai

The long version — what to eat, when to go, and how to order it.

A classic Shanghai food shop frontage in the streets inland from the Bund Food

Fifteen Minutes From The Bund, The Food Changes Completely

The Bund's own restaurants speak fluent English and take every card. Walk fifteen minutes inland and you're in a different Shanghai: older, cheaper, better. A walking loop with five stops and a total budget under ¥150.

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Stacked bamboo steaming baskets at a Shanghai dumpling shop Food

Liang, Long, Zhi — How Shanghai Actually Sells Its Food

Nothing at an old-school Shanghai shop is sold by "a portion". Noodles come in liang, buns come in liang, dumplings come in long, pancakes come in zhang. The unit system nobody translates — decoded.

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A Shanghai noodle counter with handwritten order slips clipped above the broth pots Food

How To Order Noodles In Shanghai Like You Live Here

Hard noodles or soft. Soup on the side or in the bowl. Scallions held back or doubled. The words that change what arrives at your table — and the ones that just get you fed.

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Glossy red-braised pork belly, one of Shanghai's benchmark benbang dishes Food

The 10 Tables Every First-Time Visitor Should Eat At In Shanghai

Not the ten fanciest, not the ten most famous — the ten places where the food is genuinely good, the price is genuinely small, and the experience is genuinely Shanghai. Ranked, mapped, and ordered in Chinese.

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A lantern-hung lane inside Yu Garden Bazaar with small restaurants and snack stalls Food

Eating At Yu Garden Without Getting Trapped

Yu Garden Bazaar is where the invention of the soup dumpling is genuinely worth seeing — and where the worst meal of your trip is genuinely possible to buy. Telling the two apart requires exactly one rule: look at who is eating.

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A plate of dry-style pan-fried pork buns, ready to point at on a phone screen How-to

How to Order Food in China With No English

You don't need to speak Chinese. You need to copy, paste and point. The exact five moves that get food in front of you — plus the sentences that fix things when it goes wrong.

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Four dry-style shengjian bao with crisp browned bases and sesame tops Food

The Two Schools of Shanghai's Pan-Fried Bun

One bursts with scalding soup. One has almost none. Locals have been arguing about which is correct for a century — and most visitors only ever meet the wrong one.

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A shengjian bao shop on a Shanghai side street at 7am, steam rising from the pan Food

Where Shanghai Eats Breakfast

Four breakfasts, four street windows you would walk straight past. What locals eat before nine, what it costs, and the Chinese words that get it in front of you.

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Get all of them as cards

Copyable Chinese names, address cards, and what to order — downloadable to your phone.